I had an issue with H4350 availability but had a ton of IMR-4350 on hand. I searched and searched fot 6XC load data with 105+gr bullets but found exactly nothing. So I looked at 6CM and 6x47L data and burn speed, bulk density and energy content and made an educated guess. My guess worked better than I’d hoped.
The load below was safe in my rifle. Your mileage may vary. Start at least 2 grains lower and work up.
Case: Norma LRP
Bullet: 115gr DTAC
Primer: Federal 210
MV: 3050 avg
Barrel: 25.5″ Columbia River Arms 3-land polygonal
I see the question asked constantly about IMR-4350 vs H4350. Nobody ever has the answer for IMR4350, they just say, “go get H4350.” but that’s both glib and unhelpful. With an identical load of H4350 I get 2980fps with similar SD’s and an identical POI. Group size with both powders was identical, 5 shots into half an inch, 10 shots into 3/4″ from a bench.
Yes, H4350 is more temp stable but sometimes you just have to run what you brung. I personally think IMR-4350 might be a better choice for those that shoot in relatively stable environmental conditions (so most of us). Velocity is higher without any more sign of pressure than H4350 (I’m sure there is a little more but not enough to say grace over).
If you can’t figure out how much of a particular powder to use, sometimes you just have to use your head and a little judgement about your head’s abilities to make good judgements and, when appropriate, give it a go. I know that will run afoul of the sensibilities of a lot of people but you have to understand that modern BOLT ACTION guns are so ridiculously strong that you’re unlikely to damage the gun itself with a small error in burn rate, energy content or charge weight. Semi-automatic platforms are very different and you can damage them substantially with a lot less of an error. In modern bolt aaction rifles it’s when the errors in burn rate, energy density or charge weight get really big that things come unglued suddenly. The line between safe and actually dangerous for a bolt action rifle is a lot wider than most people think. The line between within the pressure limits of brass cases is much narrower but that’s mitigated by all the safety elements designed in to rifles like gas venting ports.
Now you have the information anyway. IMR-4350 is a great powder choice for 6XC and other fast 6mm’s like 6x47L and 6CM with bullets from mid-weight to heavy for caliber. Don’t let the me too’s on web forums cock block you from reaching your goal. If you like. IMR4350, it’ll work just fine. In a case with ~40gr powder capacity, you should come down 2 grains from your H4350 load and work up.
As always with my load data, this is information not advice. You are responsible for your actions and your safety. I provided data as an EXAMPLE of what can/will happen. It’s not a prediction or your results and you should exercise reasonable amounts of caution.
This is a delicious, crunchity, creamy, sweet, chocolate-y packet of amazeballs. You’ll just have to hate me for being right after you try it.
Take one of these:
Then pull it apart.
Then get some Tillamook medium cheddar cheese and commit a crime against humanity.
Be sure you have sufficient ratios of ingredients.
OMG this is so yummy. I originally did it in an attempt to ruin someone on Oreo cookies and/or cheddar cheese. Not only did it backfire in the most interesting way but said individual was more put off by a very tiny glitter bomb.
In the end I was left with a new confection and not much more.
Insert “cool starry bra” jpg’s and pictures of your horrendous feet in the comments below.
Thanks to my good friend KVK and user TurboF for pointing out some embarrassing errors so I could fix them. That comes as a patched minor version update. Version 10.5 is a patch release with fixes for MV, Secondary Data and other very minor tweaks. This is not a significant update but you might as well upgrade anyway. It’s free, right! Click the link below to download.
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Note: 1L is about enough for 1 toe support bag. 4L is approximately enough for 1 medium pillow. 8L is enough for 1 medium pillow + 3-4 toe bags. All boxes are filled with just a little bit extra just in case.
The rifle I initially called Project Gabriel has gone by many other names over its life. Most people currently refer to it as “The Hot Dog Gun”. The nicknames it gets are representative of the external appearance and are mostly arrived at through references made by other people who’ve seen it. The “project” name stays with the receiver forever and never changes so the rifle is still “Project Gabriel” even though the nickname might change occasionally. At least every time I change barrels anyway.
The poor thing has gone through many iterations of appearance. I suspect many of you will do or have done or are in the process of going through the same iterative appearance and accessory changing on one of your rifles even if for different reasons. I maintain finishes on my rifles that are appropriate to what I want the finish to do, not necessarily what I want the rifle to do. If I want it to merely protect the metal then whatever finish it came in is usually OK. What about those times when I want the appearance of the rifle to do more than protect the metal/wood/plastic from the sun / water / etc…? Well, then I am likely to get creative about things.
Many years ago when I first got the Savage 10FP-SR it was bone stock. I traded into it for a well used Browning BAR in 7mm Remington Magnum. The barrel on that rifle had been treated to a very little bit of target shooting so it hadn’t been burned up and I quite liked it because it really soaked up the recoil from 7mm RemMag full power hunting loads. The rifle itself was 1.5-2MOA rifle on its best day so it wasn’t a tack driver. It was a decent deer killer. As much as I liked it, I had stopped hunting in California almost as soon as I’d picked up the BAR. It only saw a couple trips with me. I’d gotten the BAR on trade for God only knows what; I certainly don’t recall. The BAR was no longer the rifle I needed so it went out and the Savage 10FPSR that would be known by so many names came in the door. When I got it it was bone stock. It didn’t even have scope mounts included in the trade.
The first thing I did was to paint the stock in a light desert sand color and drop a 20MOA rail, a home-made Kydex cheek piece, a SWFA 16x42mm Super Sniper scope and a Barret M468 muzzle brake that I’d opened up the spout on to .330″ from .308″. It was suitable enough to get out and get shooting but it was not soft shooting by any stretch. The brake was only minimally effective. It was meant as a brake for Barret M4’s in 6.8SPC and I doubt it did much there. My modification let it work on a .308Win until I could afford a decent JP Enterprises Tactical Brake.
At about the same time as the picture above was taken, I had 3x US Optics ST-10 10x37mm scopes on the way as well as an MDT LSS chassis and some Magpul bits for the butt and pistol grip. The rifle was then taken to the 2015 California State Championships for Metallic Silhouette and I competed with it. This is exactly the wrong combo for that sport. Most people were using much lighter recoiling cartridges than a .308Win with 168’s at 2700fps. Fast 6mm’s and 6.5mm’s were already ruling the roost. I did not lose as I had expected to. I came in 2nd to last which I was excited about being as that was my first match shooting offhand at long range. Here’s a little video excerpt from that match. I was the only guy with a tactical rifle and you can see it kicking the snot out of me.
Right after that match I went and got myself an MDT LSS stock chassis and put together the core configuration that the rifle still has to this day. In addition to the LSS I put a Magpul MOE grip and Magpul MOE butt stock and cheek riser on it and went with Accurate Mag steel 10rd magazines. It had started to take on a “tacti-cool” appearance which I wasn’t necessarily avoiding. In fact, I wanted it to be tacti-cool because who didn’t at the time. Now we had what could be called the optimal .308 combination for a rugged, reliable, accurate and deadly package for prone and obstacle shooting (but not offhand) that’s more or less limited to somewhere near 1000yrds of useful range. At the time hitting a 2MOA target 1000yrds was still considered to be nearly unobtanium by the masses. People had a strange idea of how far that actually is and seemingly figured it was on the Moon.
When a little money came my way by virtue of me quitting my job which cashed out my saved up vacation pay, I used some of the money to upgrade my scope to a US Optics ER-25 which turned out to be a major fiasco. US Optics reputation for optical quality, durability and dead-nuts click values were legendary. It’s ability to execute on their quality standards was, however, not quite so legendary. When you got a good one, it was a work of art. When you didn’t it was an expensive disappointment and an expensive shipping/insurance hassle that should never have happened.
US Optics had just been sold and before the sale of the company they squirted OODLES of ER-25’s out of the door which were not all up to USO’s quality standards. I sent mine back 3 times before they got it right and then I said, “Screw it!” and ditched the ER-25 it for a Vortex Razor 2 4.5-27x56mm.
At the same time as the scope upgrade I’d decided that .308’s kick too hard for PRS competition, for me at least, and so I ordered a new 26″ barrel from Black Hole Weapons in .243 Ackley Improved and stuck a JP Enterprises tactical brake on it. No recoil in that combo despite running 115gr DTAC’s out at 3200fps. You could put the butt stock on your nose and fire it and not get a bloody nose. The Razor was really quite good in almost every way. Almost. The turret knobs attach with pinch screws that you’re not supposed to over-tighten but which if you don’t get tight enough will eventually work themselves loose. There’s a fine line between the two in my experience. It happened to me in a match and at the bench and that was enough to cause me to rethink my choice in optics. I decided that since new stuff was only disappointing me that I’d drop back to some older models of optic which had proven themselves.
At the same time, I was noticing that a lot of competitors had their rifles in LSS stocks in flat dark earth color and it was getting hard to tell them apart. As well, I wanted to do what we’d done in metallic silhouette competition which was to set up a garishly finished rifle which would accomplish the dual purpose of being very distinctive and getting inside the heads of other competitors. The more garish the better as it would have the other shooters spinning criticism of my rifle in their heads instead of focusing on the match. It is a strategy that has worked well for years and is not entirely uncommon. So, enter the Dodger Dog / Hot Dog gun. I gave it a paint job that looked like a hot dog with mustard and relish on a bun. It proved very effective in being easy as hell to spot on a rack full of otherwise similarly set up rifles.
While I was at it I had also set up my Mossberg MVP .223 as a Sonoran Coral Snake and my .308Win barrel got painted to resemble a Texas Coral Snake. All of the above had many other competitors commenting snidely which was the goal. They stopped talking when their scores were getting beaten by the scores coming out of The Hot Dog Gun. They were even more surprised when one of my students borrowed my rifle and had me call all of his drops, drifts and holds and he won the match. No, I’m not the best shooter in the world. I’m a better spotter than I am a shooter. I am however a very consistently decent shooter and when I’m on the firing line I find it very easy to be tightly focused. Other competitors mind game in their own ways and I don’t complain. So when I mind game other competitors via a garish and silly paint job, they reciprocate and respond with humor, good will and a desire to beat me. Which means, I’m in their head. Mission accomplished.
I ran the Hot Dog Gun for about 2 years which was the life span of my .243AI barrel. After 1500 rounds it got pulled so that I didn’t have a surprise during a match. It still shoots well but the throat has gotten quite long and it likes to toss a flyer now and then now. In the last 2 years I also started using BipodEXT from Accuracy Solutions to extend my bipod location forward of my muzzle for greater stability. Boy that really worked! During the last year or so I finally found a US Optics SN3 3.8-22x58mm scope that had all the coolest options on it: MTC (more tactile clicks at 1mil intervals), objective parallax adjustment, CAPRC reticle, sunshade with ARD, mil/mil, EREK knob, red illumination and a 34mm tube. I also got 2 other 3.8-22x’s with 44mm objectives, 1 in MOA with a 35mm tube and 1 in mils with a 34mm tube. My US Optics collection was finally full and the rifle got a XLR Industries Tactical butt stock as well as being switched to Accu-Tac bipods from Harris bipods.
I’ve set up my latest barrel in a new chambering, 6XC, with a tight neck custom chamber. The new barrel is installed and this time sports no brake. Brakes are just loud when your rifle barely recoils to begin with. With the new barrel comes a new paint job. I’d thought about doing a My Little Pony theme but in the end it really didn’t work so the idea perished. Oh what to do for a concept. Google to the rescue.
I’m not into comic books, I’m unaware of the difference between Marvel and DC. I do gather there’s a difference, I just don’t know or care to know what it is. Nor even have I seen much of the movies or TV series’ that have been made to capitalize on the whole genre. What I do know and like is that those comic book heroes and anti-heroes usually are armed and they’re armed with creatively designed and garishly finished weapons. I only needed to pick one. I thought about Punisher but that’s been played out. I Google’d and Google’d looking for themes and found out that I am not forward looking, exceedingly visually creative or prone to coming up with original ideas so I had to adapt from inspiring ideas that already exist. Deadpool seemed like a good theme to go with. It’s basically graffiti and red paint on a black substrate so it’s easy to pull off and if it gets scuffed that will only add to the effect.
So here is where we have arrived. I’ve still yet to do any of the graffiti but I have a set of ideas, including “chimichanga” that will add accents here and there. On the upside, the scope being black really worked and didn’t need any accent paint. I don’t paint my US Optics scopes. 😉
No, this is not a joke. I want actual opinions. Note that your honest opinion might come back to bite you in the butt because I will 100% give you credit if you give me any really sparkly ideas. I’m actually going to do this to one of my actual match rifles.
Why? Well garish guns get in the heads of other competitors, I never mistake my rifle for anyone else’s and it keeps competitor mitts off my rifles… they don’t want to be associated with something so garish. The rifle I’m doing this to was already painted like a Texas coral snake in one iteration and a hot dog with mustard and relish in another iteration. I shit you not. Check it out.
Why might you think it might be a joke? Well I’m doing a My Little Pony rifle this time. I tried to do a Megaman rifle but it just didn’t work. 8 bit graphics kinda suck.
I could do the old woodland pattern:
Or use silhouettes for a DIY rattle-can camo job and go with a lavender background color and gold/pink/blue silhouettes crossed up in the usual camo way but also add a top coat of glitter and then clear coat over the top.
Or just go whole hog and do something similar to the Glambo rifle but with Pinky Pie or Rainbow Dash.
If I do Pinky Pie then that would be what… “Pinky Die” with a pink pony tail and pink wig on the scope?
Or do I do Rainbow Dash and call it “Painbow Dash” or maybe “Rainbow Path” or “Rainbow Trajectory”?
Vote your conscience and spread the word. The more votes we get the more inclined I am to comply with your more hideous suggestions.
So we have initial results. I’d like to thank you all for the views on my video.
We will be testing this die set more over the next year. This is out of my pocket and out of my own curiosity. I have the credit card bills and had the arguments with my wife to show for it. I must caution, because of some things people seem to have in their heads, that this isn’t ever going to make a 1″ gun into a .5″ gun. Anyone suggesting such a thing is either a fool or a liar. What you should be expecting is to reduce variability in your ammo which reduces things like flyers & SD’s. Effects on group size, maybe small ones should be expected as a normal effect of better consistency but because barrel harmonics are involved there so heavily it’s best to keep your hopes in check and out of the land of silliness.
I set up a partially blinded experiment with unfired, 2x fired and >5x fired cases. We (Coach and I) sized up 50rds of each from my Exact die and 50 of each from Coach’s Redding die and tested that in Coach’s rifle. Coach’s rifle has somewhere over 1900rds down the pipe now which is a concern as you’ll see soon. We set the ammo up identically in everything from components to neck tension. We ran 10 shot groups which were composed of 2 non-consecutive 5-shot groups fired at the same aim point. Coach loaded, packed and labelled the ammo boxes (labels are “1” and “2”) and didn’t tell me till after the shooting was done which was which. I pulled the rounds from the boxes, logged data and called the target to engage while coach did the shooting. That way neither of us knew during shooting which ammo was being fired at any given time. That was the best way I could think of for me to pull out experimenter induced bias with a research team of 2.
The result of the first accuracy test was null. That is to say that the numbers difference in average group size was not outside the level of statistical noise. The exception was with brand new brass. It always shot more consistently than reloaded brass and so I removed those results from the full data set due to the noise they introduced. We also weren’t meant to be testing new brass as that would not apply anyway but I wanted that data for another experiment I’ve been running. This is all precisely what was expected. I expected no big result (but certainly hoped for one) in accuracy simply by going to full length resizing and having extremely consistent neck tension and headspace.
Because the result is null though, we’ll re-run the experiment on that rifle just before we replace the barrel, just to verify the results reproduce reliably. We also did some velocity testing as part of that and there was no statistical change in average velocities or SD’s except that in the new brass loads but it was more consistent set to set. Why pull the barrel? The rifle used for that run of the experiment now has ~1900 rounds through it in 6XC with a single load spec (38.5gr H4350, F210M, Norma brass, 115gr HBN coated DTAC). The load is mild; generating only 2800fps, but we know that that barrel is within a few hundred of being pulled on principle; if not actual need, as far as match work goes and it may not be capable of the repeatable accuracy that might show up with the Exact die. So, we’ll try another barrel. A new one. Actually, a new two! So stay tuned, there’s more to come.
In September I purchased 2x new barrels which I got as blanks from the same production run (from Black Hole Weapons). I purchased a new custom reamer in 6XC that produces a chamber that is very tight to the dimensions of the Exact die. Thankfully you can order a reamer with any number of customizations and it’s still the same price as a custom reamer with just 1 custom dimension. Unfortunately it takes weeks for such a reamer to be made. Over the winter I handed the whole works over to a gunsmith friend of mine that also makes ultra-precise gauges as a business. So, he has the equipment and skills to set up barrels that are truly as identical as we could make them and identical enough for a useful experiment to come out of it despite a sample size that’s extremely small.
Anyway, I got both barrels cut, profiled and chambered identically. It was at great cost too. The cost to set each one up was double what I normally pay him to set up a barrel for me for each barrel with over 15 hours of work on each one. These are our new match barrels for the next 2 seasons too. Coach and I will be shooting from the same ammo box so we can share data. Maybe we’ll pick up a few points on same-day wind calls.
We did have a non-null result and from a different direction, which I also predicted. That was that with loads that were sized with my ExactShooting.com die we never had trouble closing the bolt. It was, in fact, always exactly the same effort. On the cases that we sized on the Redding neck die that Coach uses bolt close effort was either not much or a TON. Some post-facto testing later on with coach’s FL die showed the same random bolt close effort. This is obviously due to random headspacing which means that Coach’s FL die probably needs a thou or two buzzed off the bottom. Irrelevant though because we’re testing what’s available out of the box and his FL die out of the box didn’t cut it so I suspect that a lot of FL dies out there may be a little long or short and aren’t sizing things like people think they are.
That is only the results from a well used barrel. We will be running this exact same test using the 2 newly set up barrels. One will be on the same gun (Coach’s match rifle) while its twin which now has just under 400 rounds on it is on a different my “Hot Dog Gun” match rifle. I don’t expect any difference but I could wind up being surprised. The new barrel on Hot Dog Gun is extremely accurate so far, better than Coach’s rifle on its first day. We’ve already developed a load for the new barrel that runs things a bit faster (2980fps) so hopefully with more pressure more differences might start to manifest.
One of the cool things about the ES die is you can pull the body/shoulder portion out and still use the neck sizing portion which itself is easily adjustable for neck tension and neck sizing depth. When you start getting hard bolt close you can dial in .0005″ or .001″ or .0015″ or whatever amount of push-back on the shoulder with an easy click adjustment and know it’ll give that to you exactly. We’ll be running a neck tension accuracy test here real soon. We’ll see if .0005″ increments makes real differences on paper. First though, I’m ordering some brand new brass for that test.
Cost is fairly high for these dies but not unprecedented. That’s true but, beside the point. If you have the money then that’s not an issue anyway. Functionality is THE issue. It’s perfectly functional and makes it super easy to dial in neck tension at .0005″ increments for those really finicky loads, to dial neck sizing depth at .020″ increments and to dial how far back you actually push your shoulders in .0005″ increments. They’ll make one to a reamer print too. How precise are the dies? Well I had my machinist do some gauging to see if they were that precise and he was pretty darned impressed.
For benchrest guys and F-class guys, I think this is really packing the potential to up their game a bit but only because those guys tend toward having done everything else already. BR and F-class are the only places I can think of of offhand where neck tension and headspacing are tightly controlled by the shooters both routinely and with an obsession rarely seen.
Is it going to help joe sixpack? Well no, to be honest. Joe doesn’t know enough to get the potential benefit to begin with. Owners of this die will 100% want to keep their brass sorted by number of firings. They’ll know about what spring back is and why it’s important to them and a lot more. They will be the type that can’t deal with unexpected 5’s instead of 0’s or 1’s in the 4th decimal place of a measurement. The right owner for this die is someone very much like me in the respect that they are prone to setting up narrowly defined experiments and to analyze the statistical data that results before forming opinions. They’re nerds.
For Coach and I the benefit is being able to share ammo and ballistics data in a match, not running out of time anymore on match stages due to bolt cycling problems, not overworking or insufficiently sizing the brass and being able to make subtle adjustments with truly minimal effort as precisely as adjusting a tactical rifle scope.
This little case seems to really like being as full as possible and/or run a little hard and put away a little bit wet if you get my meaning. We broke in the barrel with 15 shots but as you can see from the data below, around shot #6 things stabilized. By round 10 I had warmed up the barrel a bit and was vacillating between baking rounds in the chamber while I wiggled around trying to get a natural point of aim and firing quickly when I was already at a good NPoA.
All discussions of load data and charge weights come with the “don’t copy me and hurt yourself” disclaimer. Don’t just run my loads, work up to them. These are all on Norma brass, F210 primers, 115gn DTAC bullets and COAL at 2.8″.
After grinding out the first 15 rounds to break in the bore and establish a zero; this was a BRAND NEW barrel after all, we took a little break and went to check the target. The new barrel shot to such a different POI than the prior barrel that it took quite a few shots just to get on steel at 100yrds. By round 10 we were on steel at what seemed like pretty close to POI=POA. Enough to move to the BoxToBench Precision 100yrd Load Development Target and dialed the zero in on the cold zero aiming point. 5 rounds at the cold zero put us at 15 shots and we were already seeing each set of 2 bullet holes (because: adjust, fire 2, adjust) either touching or very close to it. We’re pretty excited about the performance we’re seeing so far.
After the first 15 shots and letting the gun cool down I settled in to go for groups for record. Starting off we did the Coach’s match load (CML) which is 38.5gn of H4350. Then the RL-23 was run followed by N550 and IMR-4166. To wrap things up we came back to the H4350 and did the 39.5gn load then finished out our paper punching with 5 at 39 grains. After that I had 5 rounds left and wanted to drop a shot on the 900 yard target so we went up there and I rang the gong for 5 rounds of 38.5gn. There’s a called flyer (obvious) on 4 of the 6 aiming points. I wasn’t in the most stable position and I knew it.
My velocities are a solid 150fps above what Coach gets from his Enfield rifled barrel of the same length with the same load. Ok, to be completely transparent, it’s not EXACTLY the same load. We do actually seat the bullets about .120 deeper forn my new barrel than Coach’s barrel but I can’t see 150fps difference from that. This is the polygonal rifling in full effect. Less friction because you’re not engraving the bullet, you’re swaging then and then twizzlering them, if only ever so slightly.
So now on to the powder results. H4350 you see the curves change shape as you fill the case up. To my eye it almost looks like someone’s grabbed on to the right side and started pulling the string taut. Group sizes went down as powder charges went up but we’re talking about going from a .75″ group to a .71″ group to a .3″ group. The academic in me is crying out to be let loose with a scale and all of my reloading supplies to do a 1/10th grain at a time experiment. But, that’s expensive and I have other matters to attend to. The experienced rifle shooter in me says, “You do realize that any one of those is sufficient for the 1000yrd stuff you’re doing right?” The competitive rifle shooter in me says, “Take the 39.5 and let’s go home and load ammo before you change your mind again.”
Onward and upward. We still have loads to analyze. Everyone knows that after my experience with it in .243AI and 6.5x55AU that I’m a big fan of Reloader 23. It’s sloooooooow burning and has been returning impressive velocities with reasonable pressures from very heavy for caliber bullets in relatively long bores from very overbore cases… as you would expect it to do if you are at all familiar with Boyle’s Gas Law. We had no idea how much to start with so we did exactly what Coach did with it for my .243AI. We filled the case up to the body:shoulder junction, dumped it out and weighed it and put that much into 5 cases. It came out at 38 grains with no drop tube, just a funnel and a weighing pan.
Reloader 23 showed me with my .243AI that it likes a full case (I’m sensing a trend here with these slow burning magnum powders) and that it’s pretty hard to put enough into a 6mm case based on a .473 case head to blow the damned thing up if you’re seating to SAAMI/CIP lengths. 38 grains produced pretty nice velocity. A testament to the efficiency of the 6XC case setup. Still with 28fps SD’s, 66fps ES and a .68″ group of 5, it would “do” but I’d want to develop it more if I were to use it. We did find that RL-23 is a great option. Somewhere around 40 grains should give high 2900’s at reasonable pressures even when seating bullets deepish.
Pressing on, we have N550. A double base NG/NC powder known for being a little temperature touchy after 90F and for being pretty darned expensive. 36.5 grains of N550 gave us a nice narrow 11.95fps SD’s on ES’s of only 29fps. Still a little tall but velocities were touching 2900 and pressures were VERY low. It also grouped a .2″ group of 5 shots. Oh man am I tempted to increase my powder budget by 25%. We figure we could fill the case on this stuff somewhere around 39 grains at 3,000fps. But, I don’t want to develop a load; much less an expensive one, if one jumps out at me and that H4350 load at 39.5 grains is hard to beat even with stupid tight groups.
Now we cross into “Coach style load” territory. So far we’ve been on the very slow side of the slow side of the rifle powder spectrum. Now we’re going to cross the street where the Beatles fans turn into Stones fans and start dragging their knuckles. Not really. Just making fun of coach. The defining line between a “Me” style and a “Coach” style of handload is I like my powder to burn all the way down the barrel giving consistent pressure all the way without a huge spike of pressure in the case itself. My way is easier on brass but harder on barrel throats because there’s more grit coming out of the case neck this way. Coach likes his pressure to form in the case, for all the combustion events to happen in that space and then to use the built up pressure. He also tends to jam bullets rather than jump them where I jump them at least a little bit normally.
Making a Coach style recipe means you know you’ll see pressure sooner or later in your experimenting. That being the case and the fact that there was no data for IMR-4166 (which is around Varget/IMR-4895 burn speed) we elected to hot-foot bloody educated guess it. I calculated that 37.5 grains was about the most we’d want to try and so we tried that. It came back hot enough to imprint my ejector hole on the brass so that’s at least 1 full grain too much juice. It did however make 3080fps with a 2fps SD and a 6fps ES for 5 rounds. Drop a grain or two and you’re right up around 2950-3000fps. What a smoker though! Too bad the pressures were simply too high.
Below you can see the velocities as they came out of the gun during testing. You can see it took about 5 rounds to season the bore and then it’s pretty much standard load development wavy gravy until you get to 2 very specific sections whose extreme flatness gives away that something very cool happened there and needed to be paid attention to.
So while N550 turned in the best group and ok SD’s, the extremely tight SD’s and the super tight group out of the 39.5gn load of H4350 has won the day. I might mess with bullet jump a little but really, I’m happy. Best not to waste barrel life.
On the topic of barrel life. Common wisdom is somewhere north of 1500 rounds but under 2000 before it’s smoked. Well that’s about a year and a half or 2 worth of life. That’s from a conventional Enfield rifled gun. I run Columbia River Arms polygonally rifled barrels which have been giving me very long barrel life and I used only HBN coated bullets for the last 1000 rounds (it’s at north of 1300 rounds now).
My .243AI still runs like a laser. I only took it off because seating depth was longer than my magazine, but there’s plenty of bullet still in the case yet. I could take it another 500+ rounds if I was willing to single feed. Pushing 115’s at 3200 can’t have been gentle on it and the expectation was that by 1000 rounds it was going to look like 5 miles of rough road down the bore but it’s not. It’s smooth as glass still and makes tiny 1000 yard groups. So if we take this barrel life thing to mean the point at which the boat tail is up inside the neck of a loaded case when seated equals cooked, my .243AI will have gotten something like 2000 rounds before its death. Thanks to some combination of the HBN coating and the polygonal rifling.
Well then, I expect something like 4,000 rounds of life from my 6XC and something like 6,000 rounds from Coach’s since we’re giving his the Modern Sparts Systems Accuracy Oil treatment for its whole life. If I pull 4,000 rounds out of this barrel I’ll be surprised as hell. 3,000 rounds wouldn’t go amiss though and would be well representative of my real expectations.
When I picked it up, I got it only because it could take my 20 & 30 round AR-15 magazines and I was in to squirrel shooting and preparing a trip to Cedarville, CA for their annual Squirrel Wars event. I was going to not spend all day loading mags this time and didn’t want to use an AR-15 again. Bolt action seemed better.
I ran over to my closest Big5 Sporting Goods and they had one on the rack with a $50 off sale price. So I snagged that right up. It was a 24″ varmint model and I was happy as a clam, for about 2 days. Within those 2 days I pulled it apart and found it was bedded with plastic, the stock leaned to the right down the barrel channel and action screw torque was unrepeatable. Fine. It’ll shoot. Right?
Well, I tossed on a Bushnell 10x40mm optic, some Burris Signature Series 1″ rings and a bipod and went to the range with some steel cased russian 55gn FMJ. The gun printed nothing inside 1.5″ at 100yrds. Ok, let’s start replacing parts. That’s always the right thing to do. Right? Using better ammo wouldn’t help, obviously. That said, I did start some handloads for it and found it had certain proclivities toward heavy weight bullets and being pushed to primer popping pressures.
So, I found out the Bushnell optic was not tracking consistently. While it was back at Bushnell being replaced (This is a common theme with the 10×40’s. Of 4 of them I’d bought, 3 needed RMA’d) I added a 16×42 fixed power SWFA SS optic and 30mm Burris Signature Series rings. I took that out squirrel shooting and was not impressed. Accuracy with 40-55gn ammo was horrid. With heavier stuff it started performing though. So, change of plans. It’s not a squirrel gun anymore. It’s a match rifle. See, I’d just gotten into a regular local prone long range precision match and needed something inexpensive to shoot there. Well, one trip in and that factory stock was shit-canned. Replaced with an MDT LSS chassis, DPMS PSG-1 pistol grip and a Magpul MOE buttstock. That did really well and I managed to turn in the 2nd highest score ever with a .223 at my regular long range match. That still stands. I haven’t bested it to date.
Not too much time passed and I came into a big bonus so I wanted a major optics upgrade. A quick call to US Optics and I had 2x ST-10’s on the way for various rifles. Epic scopes. Simply wonderful. I took that out with my spotter/best friend, The Disco Tripper, and we turned in some groups on steel. Man that combo could shoot. Running 70gn Berger VLD’s and 75gn Hornady BTHP it was an easy gun to hit long range steel with. I mostly kept those ST-10’s on my bigger guns and used the 16x SWFA optics though. They’re a lot harder to use than an ST-10 but I wanted the extra magnification for the aim-small-miss-small thing.
Once we got to this point my coach started harassing me about trying a bedding job on the chassis. So we grabbed some epoxy and fully bedded the recoil lug and skim bedded the action. I also added a MOE cheek riser to the butt. Instant improvement came from the bedding in that no more flyers plagued me. That settled her ass down nicely and I shot quite a few matches as well as a bunch of informal plinking sessions with the gun. The cheek riser had the rifle as comfortable as if it were injection molded around me. I’ve not yet gotten the rifle in its current form to fit quite that nicely, mostly due to time.
I have been able to shoot the living piss out of it regardless of whatever else is going on because it’s a .223 and very inexpensive to load for. That’s been a saving grace with this project.
It was about the time that my barrel was starting to really age that I also decided to upgrade basically all of my scopes. I started with some more US Optics in the form of an ER-25 for my .308. Not the best choice. It worked great on the big 7mm Remington Magnum (below far left) but not so much on the .308. It was also just too damned big for my safe. No rifle fit in there with the ER-25 on it so I had to bounce that optic and began a long journey of horse trading to end up with what I have now which is more US Optics but these fit in my safe and you’ll see them further down in this article. One thing I was really trying to nail down was parts commonality so I could take parts off of one and put them on another if the occasion arose that it was necessary. My mindset was really into TEOTWAWKI at the time. I’m in a better place now that President Daddy is in the White House.
It wasn’t too long after I’d bounced the larger US Optics ER-25 and an ST-10 in favor of a set of Vortex Razor 2 HD’s. One in 3-18×50 and the other in 4.5-27×56. They are excellent scopes but I hate hate hate pinch screws on turret knobs for exactly the reason that I bounced those Vortex optics. They loosen enough to not adjust when you twist em’ but they still click and it happened multiple times on both turrets of both scopes. Plus they’re heavy as all get out and the 3-18x on the MVP was in MOA because that’s what I could get at the time. All combined I just was not happy. So, I looked around and looked around and finally after almost a year found a US Optics B-17 I could sell the 3-18x Razor and buy. Excellent choice. I guess I’m just a US Optics guy.
I ditched the factory trigger early on and got myself a Jard and a Timney. The Timney spends most time on the rifle. The Jard is special purpose and breaks at just ounces. It’s not a safe trigger for most use cases but it’s brilliant when I’m trying to hit chicken eggs at 500m. The Timney doesn’t have that annoying blade in the middle of it but otherwise is set about the same, 2.5lbs.
The first Razor 2 to go away was the 4.5-27x Razor II because I had a buyer for it and something on the line to replace it with. I sold it and had enough money left to buy a used US Optics SN3 3.8-22×44 ERGO on a 35mm tube in MOA with a really slick Dragunov style reticle that heavily uses chevrons. It’s a battle ready optic for sure. My coach decided to get into long range prone though and needed a scope so that went on his gun. Now I needed another. Begin the long look for just the right swap.
I shot Project Rolling Stone in variations of one form for a good long time. Long enough to burn out the barrel. Truth be told I’d more or less killed that barrel the week I got the gun. I had a bunch of steel cased Russian bulk ammo with bullets that were copper washed steel and started the gun on those. That must have eaten half the barrel life. By the time I’d had around 3K rounds out of it (IIRC, it’s been a while) that barrel just wouldn’t reliably hold the match level accuracy I needed. It was fine for a sportsman, and I gave that barrel away to a sportsman later on, but not for a match long range precision gun. Thing is, only 1 outfit had reportedly made any small ring MVP barrels and they made them shouldered instead of barrel-nutted. I also wanted a particular barrel maker’s barrel. Black Hole Weaponry. Why? Well, their pipes are just too easy to deal with, shoot excellently, clean easily, are inexpensive, stainless and come threaded at no extra charge.
Once I got that barrel situation settled then I wanted to do a little something with the finish. So I got the idea to make it look like a Sonoran coral snake. 3 months of beating on my local Cerakote guy and getting nothing but excuses later I finally got it back, literally hot from the oven and the scale pattern was backward. Fuck! Well, such is life. Only dorks and herpetologists ever notice. What everyone notices is he didn’t finish the last 4 inches of the pipe. Dick! I eventually got it back and had my 26″ pipe at 1:7 twist in Caudle 3-groove polygonal rifled 416R stainless steel. I bought a bunch of 73gn ELD-M projectiles and a ton of new PPU brass and have been swatting steel on the regular with it since.
It was such a hassle dealing with the Cerakote guy that I did my .308 barrel with rattle can spray paint and it actually turned out pretty cool despite me not having much experience with this sort of thing. I used the mesh plastic thingy they send barrels in to make the scale pattern and 3 colors of paint with blue painters tape.
Then at some point one of the guys at Primary Arms and another guy from Accuracy Solutions were both interested in how their assorted products would do at my monthly long range prone match. Being a good sport and a bit curious, I set out to find out. I added a Primary Arms 4-14x FFP ACSS HUD/DMR optic and an Accuracy Solutions BipodEXT to the gun. I also switched out the Magpul MOE based butt section for an XLR Industries Tactical stock to gain full adjustability which I wanted for various reasons but mostly because I needed a proper cheek weld with the PA optic on there. The Primary Arms scope works beautifully if you trust and use the BDC reticle and did not do well at all when using the mil dots and calculating. The BipodEXT was brilliant. It put the axis of rotation in 2 dimensions in front of the muzzle which increased the lever length enough to make it like shooting from a machine rest. All wiggle was gone!
Having finished with testing stuff I didn’t want to use long term and written the appropriate articles, I went back to perfecting the combo and slapped a US Optics B-17 on top. To finish the whole thing I bounced my usual Harris 6-9″ swivel type bipod and put a new AccuTac BR5 into my kit. That’s a beast of a bipod.
I get a lot of strange looks and a lot of people stopping by to make comments from snide to supportive about the rifle and all my rifles for that matter. It’s my toy and I’ll play with it how I like to so I don’t mind when they get snide or chiding. All my match guns are meant to elicit a visceral response. Partly that’s to destabilize my co-competitors mentally so I have a better chance of them doing shitty. Part of it is just for conversation starting. Part of it is, I like these rifles and I like to make them look how I like them to look. I betcha you’ll never find another coral snake gun or another hot dog gun but everyone and their sister has a Hello Kitty AR-15 or a scale pattern on the entirety of their AR-15 or shark teeth, etc… Just because they’re unoriginal repeating pieces of camel poo doesn’t mean I have to be unoriginal.
If you do the math, this gun has cost me a pure fortune. $600 for the base gun, $750 in various stock parts, $5500 in various optics, $40o-ish on triggers, $300 on barrels, $300 on rings and mounts, $10 in muzzle devices (A2 birdcage) and $100 in Cerakote and spray paint. So there you go. I’m about $8,000 in if I’d had to buy each piece at full price. Thankfully, I did a lot of swapping this for that and either reselling or directly trading most of the time so my actual spend on the gun as it sits is closer to $2500US in real money spent.
That said, for $2500 I’ve got a .223 that will easily swat a bad guy or a critter to well beyond the effective range of the bullet it shoots and shoots well under .75MOA. It’s got the best parts on the aftermarket on it without resorting to blatantly overly expensive bits that are just more expensive without being any better. I know a lot of folks with $2500 in an AR-15 that couldn’t shoot a 3/4MOA group to save their skin. I’m pretty happy with what I have here.